Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Port - American Twists


I am a huge fan of Port during the fall and winter months of the year. Cool climates and crisp air seem to open up this wine style, releasing the flavors of these high octane aperitifs which usually range between 17 – 20% ABV.

In order to be called “Port,” the fortified wine must be made in Portugal - moreover Porto along the Douro Valley and river. I had the chance to visit this region a couple of years ago and I spent two days visiting the port houses along the riverside, taking in this lush beverage, sipping it on the riverside as I played my guitar in the dark night. Here is what I leaned:

Port is classified in two categories: Bottle Aged and Barrel Aged. A popular misconception is that the two Port categories are “Tawny” and “Ruby,” but these are sub styles of each category.  Ruby, along with Reserve, White, Rose, Late Bottle Vintage (LBV), Vintage, and Crusted (blends) represent the Bottle Aged category. Tawny, Colheita (single vintage Tawny – anything with a year on the label), and Garrafeita (Tawny Port which is aged 3-5 years in a barrel and an additional 5-6 years in a bottle) represent the Barrel Aged Ports. Basically it’s Tawny and everything else.

If you cannot take the time (or do not have the money) to go to Portugal and explore the Ports, you can pick up most of these imports in your local supermarket or boutique wine shop. Port is Porto’s largest export and the leading port houses export millions of cases all over the World from Douro – the third oldest wine region (1756), just behind the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary (1730) and Chianti (1716).

Another alternative is to visit your local wine region. Recently, there has been a growth of “Port Style” wines popping up throughout the US wine regions in the East and West. Again, these wines cannot be classified as “Ports” since they do not grow in Portugal, but they do provide a decent alternative. My local region is Virginia and on a recent trip with my Aunt for a day of wine tasting, heading deep into Albemarle County, I found two Port Style wines that took me back to my nights along the Douro River.

The first wine is called “Othello” (18% ABV) which comes from Veritas Vineyard & Winery in Afton, Virginia – just outside of Charlottesville. Othello it is a blend of three equally proportioned grape varieties of Tannat (a French varietal), Touriga Nacional (a varietal from Portugal and considered the backbone of Port) and Petit Verdot. This Port Styled wine is aged for two years in oak, which helps create the aromas of plum, black cherries, blackberries and caramel. The smooth tannins allow for it to be consumed by itself (as an aperitif or on ice). Veritas recommends that you “take Othello to its ultimate destiny with English Stilton cheese and a ripe pear pure heaven!

King Family Vineyards, located in Cozet, Virginia (also outside of Monticello), produced the second wine simply called “7” (18% ABV) in honour of the 7 minute Chukkas (periods of play) in Polo – more specifically the last period. You see, along with producing wines, the vineyard also host polo matches on their custom field which sits in front of a back drop of the Blue Ridge Mountains and grape vines. This American, Port Styled wine is made with 100% Merlot and is fortified with brandy giving it an American twist. The mixture is then aged in Kentucky bourbon barrels for 2 years which gives it a subtle smoky, vanilla and burnt cherry flavour which would pair well with a cigar by an outdoor fire.

I hope you enjoyed these two wines from the State of Virginia. If you want to read more about my days on the Douro, you can always buy my book (www.colehiggison.com for more information). Remember, don’t sleep on Port. It is one of the World’s oldest wine styles and it is sure to warm you up on a cool autumn day or a cold winter night in front of the fireplace before stuff happens.

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